Late breakfast at the hotel. Soph got up at 5am to see whether the view to Kanchenjunga was clear, but no such luck. The killing of Osama Bin Laden on every channel, as wait for confirmation from President Obama. Post confirmation the news focusing on rejoicing American uni students outside the Whitehouse. Revenge killing is rarely clean. One lodge guest asks me how close Sikkim is to the Pakistani border.
Clear out and head back along the road towards Geyzing. The roads largely unoccupied as we walk up through the conifers then passed by a vehicle mounted Buddhist funeral procession bedecked with prayer flags and accompanied by sounds of horn and cymbal.
Continue back through the welcome to Pelling arch and then down to the entrance to the Rabdentse palace ruins. Lightly signed entrance we follow a path through semi dense jungle passing in the later stages signs erected by the Archaeological survey of India to encourage the less enthused to complete the journey to the site. A bit concerning given that the walk in was definitely not very arduous.
The site itself is well maintained and more significant in remains than I had thought. Large red brick walls still standing clearly above the man made plateau upon which it sits and watches over the bowl of valleys below. Three tall pines stand above the ruins of the palace. Chortens and some well aged stone etched Buddhist iconography resting with views back to the mountains. (or would be if it were not all clouded in) This site was the second capital (est late seventeenth century) following relocation from Yuksom further to the West after concerns of Nepali invasion. It was itself abandoned in 1814 following a drive by the Nepalis in the late eighteenth century that went as far as entering Tibet. The Chinese intervened at that time and the Nepalis were defeated. A Sino-Nepal treaty was signed as a result.
From the ruins looking north towards Pelling sitting high on the ridge is the golden roofed monastery Pemayanste. Established by Lhatsun Chempo one of the three revered Lamas who established the Buddhist monarchy and crowned the first king or Chogyal. Unfortunately no sign of a walking track linking the two so back to the road and the walk up the hill. Cut the corner via a path near some large white Chortens joined by a happy looking dog and continue up and around the knoll to the three storied monastery and it's surrounding accommodation. The monastery belongs to the Nyingma, part of the Red sect. Enter the large prayer wheel room on passing and using all available body weight get the massive prayer wheel spinning, on each revolution the dinging of a small bell.
Continue around to the main temple which is beautifully adorned with Buddhist art and storytelling some so aged that it is starting to peal from the walls. Joined by a quite vocal cat who does not pay any attention to the silence signs. Finally following a few pats he takes up residence in a box containing various donations below one of the main statues.
Head upstairs where an equally ornate floor is broken in two by a dividing wall. On one side a smaller prayer room with butter candles burning, above which paper hoods spin as a result of the rising hot air. Bench seating below a window which I am guessing would have an amazing view if the clouds would miraculously part. In the other room wrapped prayer books and the walls covered with I am guessing a 1008 buddhas. Up a rickety staircase and into a room the centre piece of which is a wooden structure intricately detailed and painted which stretches inside glass walled protection to the roof. The model is a representation of the Maha gurus heavenly palace (Sangtokpalri).
From the monastery back through Pelling before heading up the ridge on the far side past the Helipad towards a forested slope and some prayer flags. Hoping to find the Sanga Chelling monastery, believed to be the oldest in Sikkim, built in 1697. The road steep but in okay condition we climbed relatively quickly, however by the time we reached the ridge line mist was already starting to blow in. Past a large cleared building site (which we later find out will be the location of another huge statue, this one of Chenrezi (the Lord of Compassion (also known as Avalokitesvara) of who the Dalai Lama is believed to be a reincarnation of).
Climb above the building site following a well trodden thin path below prayer flags sitting still higher on the ridge. Great big fig styled trees and creepers and ferns the forest is fantastic. Spot some well aged chortens that have merged with the forest with saplings growing over and above the ruins. Meet a lone French guy with accompanying dog who has followed the trail for the past two hours down to a small village and back. Continue along for a further fifteen minutes listening to the birds and the wind before turning back. Mist is enveloping all bar the close trail as we wander back along. At the ruined chortens turn up onto the higher peak past a cremation site before descending alongside the prayer flags back to the forest clearing and road building project below.
On the return walk to Pelling below we meet people who appear and then disappear into the mist. Some looking at us as if ghosts in the afternoon mid light others very cheerful.
Note a family planning sign on entering Pelling, "Quality in numbers not quantity", fair call. Settle in for dinner in the restaurant before retreating to pack up once again.
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