Drizzling, a little perspiration (Thursday 5 May 2011)

Goodmorning sun. For some reason did not sleep peacefully last night so it would be easy to stay in bed, if it were softer than what it is. Breakfast of Roti and Subji made fresh by a range of family members. Very fresh, very simple and very tasty. Fresh flowers on the table in the back dinning room, but not an easy assessment to say let's go there because it looks good and is popular. This small a town very few people eat out and so they mainly cook for themselves, so you won't see tables full of people looking satisfied. 50 rup including chai. Eat at a normal hotel and it is 50 rup for one pancake, different ingredients but gives you a feel for tourist pricing.

From Sikkim, India. May 2011

The Drayng Tashidang Hotel is below the bazaar so once outside on the bikes the ride just rolls away and starts into switchbacks down the Eastern side of the ridge before swinging around the Southern face of the knoll upon which Tashiding Monastery sits atop. My brake pads must have been worn down in the last couple of days of sharp climb sharp fall as the pressure applied to achieve complete stop is greater. Soft braking is fine in most situations unless you swing around a corner and are face to face with a jeep coming uphill or drift off a little through the bends and than notice that the corner is sharper than you anticipated. Like in a car braking on tar is quite ok, braking on pebbles different story. As a result keep the brakes soft and roll through the corners as much as possible keeping a smoother momentum. Still find that towards the bottom I am tailgating an open backed jeep with the occupants tracking my progress against theirs continuously.

At the base a bouncy metal suspension bridge awaits. Allow the jeep to go across first and watch the free moving bridge bottom sway side to side slightly with the jeeps forward movement. Feels a bit like driving onto a ferry and watching the metal ramp slide slightly across the downward sloping concrete access ramp.

From the bridge the road has a nasty little pinch up following the river before we circle and climb further all with an annoying yappy dog until Soph growls at it to go home...the tone of voice works. The water in the river is semi still as it is backed up from a small hydro dam (60 mega watt) visible from Legship and now coming into view below and to our right. Just above and before the dam a road forks up to our left, no signage but it looks reasonable bar for it's steep gradient. Roll back and ask a middle aged guy outside a cross thatch bamboo and metal hut who confirms that yes Rabongla is up there.

Though the road surface is in good shape we climb quickly through a series of switchbacks that turns off our speed and turns on our perspiration. Glistening we continue to crank up as every now and again you look up as someone says namaste or cycle. The view back across towards Tashiding only identifies the golden roof topped monastery still above us sitting atop the dense green forest. Above and behind the knoll we can see sharp quite craggy snow capped ridges through the light cloud.

Road surface becomes occasionally rough but generally there is a clean line or edge of tar through the rubble, appreciated for bob's smoother roll. Jeeps passing either taking kids to school or tourists/locals to their next destination are occasional and generally heard well before seen. We try and spot the paths cutting up the mountain to see where our belgian friend will be passing through. Definitely more direct but also calf achingly steep. My rear derailleur is slightly out as I can't pick up Granny gear, not the ideal time for this to occur and has me standing in the saddle through the odd slipped road pinch. Soph is rolling along smoothly behind and comments on the flora every now and then. There are a few scattered trees with an abundance of white blossom style flowers adding to the snowcapped backdrop. The valley falls dramatically below.

Start looking for Gewzing when we get to about the 12km from Rabong signs. Still looking at 10km where the guide has it marked. After passing another fork in the road at 8km to go we finally spot a small Petrol station to our right and then further up the hill the start of town. Breath a sigh of relief as we have both been hanging out for some time out and more importantly lunch. On the small access road that turns to our left opposite the SBI (State Bank of India) branch we are invited to stop and rest a while. Take them up on the offer and have very tasty cheese (similar to fetta in taste) momos, veg soup and great chai. Family very friendly and welcoming, son back for holidays from uni at Kolkata. Says it feels like heaven in comparison.

Back on the bikes and again start churning though the gradient feels better. A few kms further up we spot a monastery and some stupas (chortens) to our right. We decide to take the opportunity of another break as some smiley young monks in their red robes stand on the steps and watch us pass. The clouds in the sky are definitely getting darker but are yet to open up.

Through the gate and into the Yung Drung Kungdrakling Bon Monastery, the only Bon monastery in Sikkim. Bon was the predecessor to Buddhism in Tibet but the monastery is largely Buddhist in styling. Bon as one guidebook identifies "grew from a profound respect for nature and emphasizes the healing of physical, natural and spiritual environments. We meet a Tibetan monk who left Tibet for Nepal before relocating to Sikkim four months ago and identifies that he feels the Chinese rule there now is "changing Tibet" . The monastery still has the buddhist Wheel of life and a Mandala in the entry porch so I didn't really pick up on the Bon differences that much.

Continue on with only 5km or so to go. Views now focusing North East along the ridge line towards Rabong and what appears to be a massive temple complex to the side. A little closer and notice it is a huge seated Buddha below a temple complex before we curl a little further and lose sight of it. Pass a Floriculture centre and then what appears to be a large education facility higher on the slope before we start encountering hotel size houses and then hotels. Road swings to the right as it continues to climb into the heart of town. Hotel 10zing recommended both by Jigmee (who we met earlier) and LP on the corner of the main street which runs perpendicular to the now forked road out of town but on top of the saddle ridge line. Clean up with appreciated bucket hot water.

Lock bikes out front before second lunch of Thakpa (Tibetan noodle soup). Decide to stretch the legs and so follow the main street up and around to the left. The road curling around with views back across the valley again to Tashiding. Trying to see where the statue and temple complex were but nothing until the road curls a little more and the statue maybe 25mtrs high or so and by the look maybe bronze comes into view. The road leading up and around is huge and is one of the nicest looking roads we have seen yet. Around the statue and across the site scaffolding is still up so uncertain whether we will be allowed in.

Up at one of the three main access arches to the site we wonder straight in and nobody pulls us up. The site is huge and takes in landscaped gardens, a large outdoor amphitheater, viewing platform back to the valley and hotel complex, not to mention the massive statue, below which in the sculpted pedestal is another building. Although not a fan of super sized objects this one and surrounding setup has been done really well and the level of finish evident even though construction is ongoing looks good. Some huge molds lye on the grass from sections of the sculpture. Wonder whether there are lightening defences for those working in the statue as a crack of thunder reverberates in the valley.

Stop for chai before the clouds finally open and start dropping cold rain which gradually intensifies as we rush back down into town but via the top of the ridge line versus the super sized road that we followed up. Monks can be heard chanting with the symbols clanging up at a gompa with closed gates so must be their afternoon puja.

Out for dinner at Kookie restaurant and bar. Meal quite tasty and good size, so glad for the suggestion, again Sonams. The restaurant was well presented and service good.

At 9.15pm we hear the shrill whistle through the main street (heard the same in Tashiding at 8.15pm) so presume it is a curfew signal.