Set off out of town out past the Doner Planet mall we went to yesterday and out towards Dispur, heading South east. On the far side of the city we swing left at a busy junction lined with people and buses. The road rough as we pass around and through some small red hillocky country covered in green foliage, large grey black boulders of various sizes breaking the over wise consistent coloring. Similar to pre Nalbari we again follow highway roadworks sometimes on new road and quite often off. Again large sections being upgraded to concrete which according to Teiso is a national project. One of two national highway projects one East - West and the other North - South.
 |
| From Assam to Arunachal Pradesh, India. May 2011 |
Continue along NH37 and pass through the gated and busy Nagaon. Spot a business identifying itself as a VIP Tent house, but tents in the context of wedding tents, made generally in these parts out of bamboo. Road seems to be a little better. Pass turn off to Tezpur still continuing East. Tea plantations on the right before entering more forested area which has plenty of pooled water on our left, but looks more fresh then swampy. The guys identify that we have entered Kaziranga National Park. To our left, towards the Brahmaputra, opens up with wide lush grasslands and we start spotting the large light grey bulk of one horned rhinos close enough to see comfortably with detail.
The tea plantation becomes more lush with greater tree canopy and dual cropping as pepper is growing like a vine on the tree trunks. To make things more interesting guys are trimming trees but from the backs of elephants. Cool. We have seen more wildlife here then in three hours at Jaldapera. There also seems to be more localised development adding further interest in returning or recommending this area to visit. Beyond the tea plantations a densely forested ridge adds further landscape character. The road is in fine condition and feeling like it is such a shame that we didn't ride further east. Pass another elephant and rider though the rider is climbing down out of the fork of a huge tree with a massive machete on his hip.
Pull into the Numaligarh dhaba just before town on the left hand side for lunch. Massive place and very professional the food is great. Just after Numaligarh turn off onto NH39. Still passing tea plantations. According to Teiso 50% of all Indian tea is sourced from Assam. He also believes that the life of a tea bush is close to 150 years though it's economic life is far shorter closer to 65 years. These bushes flow like carpet over an increasingly rolling landscape with gouged watercourses eroding soil from some of the small rises.
A bridge crossing made out of bamboo but consisting of raised joined single lengths for the bridge base leading to a small village. Pass freight trucks with Awazdo on their tail flap, Sound do in english. Slightly different from the usual Horndo and no encouragement required. So many cows out on the road. Of all sizes most are quite docile around the fast passing vehicles either remaining lying on the tar, standing resolutely or slowing strolling across the road. Braking and swerving is the only effective technique as honking does not seem in the least to concern them.
Enter another wildlife park, this time the Garampani sanctuary which is denser forest thanks to vine covered undergrowth. Spot something grey on the side of the road further along and Soph goes for the camera at first believing it to be a baby elephant but it turns out, on closer inspection to be a large pig. Villages increasingly with houses made out of thatched roofs and mud walls. Hindi temples straight sided roofs versus the beehive style that has been used in most temples we have been by in the past few days. Wood stalls set up on the side of the road for a stretch of maybe one km selling bundles of wood cut to short lengths of about 40cm lengths.
Some sections of road now starting to be quite rough with massive pot holes before entering Rongpangbong. Misted hills in the distance on both sides of the road. Large factory town of Bokajan, with huge chimney stack visible well before town, very similar to a sugar mill stack. Signage over large gates identifies Cement Corporation of India factory. Pull over and pick up some alcohol supplies, or the guys do anyway, as Nagaland is apparently a dry state. Alcohol is able to be found but at quite a premium. Decline the opportunity as beer needs to be cold to be enjoyable and I have been unable to source tonic water since reentering India. Diminishes the desire to have gin.
Not long after enter rolling small creases of land covered in low growth rather then trees and hidden beneath wild vines we discuss the landscape with Tesio. Apparently this was once tea estates but following some trouble in the form of managers being kidnapped the land has been almost left to return to the wild. Disconcerting approach to Nagaland.
Pull over on the edge of Dimapur at the Border checking station and drop gate. Watch a plane pass over as the guys go through the registration process on our behalf for foreigners entering the state. Fifteen minutes latter continue into Dimapur which we find out is as Nagalands largest city and commercial hub. It is also the location of the only commercial airport in the state. Heading along the entrance road town has a touch of the wild west with small stall shacks on both side of the road and platoons of both cycle rickshaws and black / yellow autorickshaws.
Turn up and over a bridge crossing the Dhansiri river into another part of town. One thing very evident is the effect of christian evangelism in the state. Post the work of christian missions over the past fifty years the naga people are now predominantly Christian having been converted from their previous animist beliefs which recognised and sought to placate spirits of the surroundings (house, village, forest, hills etc). Churches and bible missions are advertised everywhere.
We recross the bridge having taken the wrong turn and drive along Kohima Road where first we pass a large bamboo thatched covered market before passing a long stretch of plain concrete double storied stores. One, is well advertised as a coffin trader. It is a shock being in such a prominent spot and as burials have not been a significant part of the lives of a lot of the people we have met over the past six months.
Pull into Hotel Trinity East (near S.P. Office Kohima Road). New place, really quite nice with lots of marble and more executive probably than our past choices. Room is a smoking room and so the lingering smell of past occupants but new and otherwise fresh.
Head down to the markets with the guys. Inspect the veg and buy some mangoes and local bananas (- a duller yellow and the size of very healthy lady finger variety) before passing a few new options, most notably fresh live frogs (toad sized) and hamsters. Apparently fried frog is a bit of a delicacy and hamsters a good cure if feeling a little sick. Tesio has a bit of a chuckle, to our raised eyebrows and a few hamster jokes and discusses that Nagas are quite exotic in their food choices and broad minded. We are definitely on the edge of south east Asia.
From the market we turn up a side street and enter through a gated large brick entry an Archeological survey of India site, Rajbari Park. Inside in a large park covered with long grass are a few phallic sandstone columns originating from the days when this was part of the Kachari kingdom, pre the Ahom civilisation in Assam (pre 13th century). The columns are very detailed though exposed to the elements, apparently lots of conjecture over the purpose and form of the ruins.
Wander back to the hotel before crossing the road for dinner at Zephyr Lounge which is fantastic. Nicely laid out, attentive wait staff and very tasty well presented food. Mocktails but slightly overpriced, food value very good with large serves. Recommend Thai tempura and Indonesian curry (with coconut rice).
No comments:
Post a Comment